A Journey Through Northcoast 500
Indulge in the International Wonders
With Sally Ross
The roads have been here forever, used by locals, farmers, semis delivering goods, families, and occasional vacationers traveling to the far north of Scotland. In a brilliant marketing effort in 2015, however, these same roads were christened the North Coast 500 (or NC500), and the race was on! No, bother that these two-lane roads offer few places to pass. Or that for long stretches, the road actually narrows to a single track, a one-lane road with designated passing places on either side that require serious local knowledge to navigate. (Quick lesson. Always pull left if you have a passing place when approached and wait until the other car passes, unless they pull over to their left first and you go on. And do not forget a wave of thanks, a nod of the head, and a smile as you go by.)
No, these same ancient roads, 516-miles of scenic, wide-open spaces of agriculture, coastlines, and mountains have been discovered as an iconic destination drive. You’ll now share the roads with sports car enthusiasts, endurance cyclists, motorcyclists often in groups of 3 to 50, caravan and camper van drivers, and even walkers, plus the occasional bounding deer or meandering sheep. Some try to break speed records. I’d recommend ten days to two weeks to really enjoy the beauty, beaches, mountains, hikes, history, and activities, the local villages and the people of this incredible place.
The Internet is full of itineraries for and advice about the NC500. (Make lodging reservations well in advance, be prepared for few bathrooms and fewer gas stations, be endlessly patient and kind, etc.) I have spent 11 summers in the Highlands, in the villages of Dornoch and Brora about 90 minutes north of Inverness on the east coast and yes, on the NC500. I’ve driven the single-track roads and byways, explored the nooks and crannies, visited the villages and dozens of eateries of this enchanted land, often traveling with local friends who have grown up or retired here.
From our experience, I’d like to share a local’s favorite spots for classic and/or classy dining along the route. I chose that terminology to help decide which of so many eateries to select. Classic includes those iconic places that have been here forever and are much beloved; they often serve traditional Scottish meals. Classy includes places that are tasteful, even elegant, are award-winning, and/or are hosted by outstanding chefs. I’ll throw in a few side notes on how to find each restaurant and what you’ll want to see along the way.
Storehouse, in Evanton. We will leave Inverness heading north on the A9 and going counter-clockwise around the Highlands. As you cross the Kessock Bridge over the Moray Firth, you’ll be driving across the Black Isle, actually a peninsula between two beautiful bodies of water with gorgeous views over agricultural fields with mountains off to the left. Just after the next bridge over the Cromarty Firth, you’ll come to The Storehouse on the right, our first stop for coffee, snacks, lunch, early supper or take-away picnic stuffs. Open daily, at Foulis Ferry, Evanton, the Storehouse offers exquisite views of the firth and fields from expansive windows or outdoor picnic spaces. In cafeteria-style, incredibly friendly folks offer the finest of fresh, locally sourced foods, from vegetables to meats to dairy and breads. The menu changes daily but includes sandwiches, steaming hot meals, soups, and desserts including massive meringues. The Foodhall in the same building is full of fresh, direct-from-the-farm take-away picnic delights including vegetables, cheeses, and an impressive array of gins that are now replacing at least some parts of local distilleries!
Greens, in Tain. In the rather large town of Tain, about 30 minutes from the Storehouse, you will find one of the most elegant restaurants in the Highlands. Greens at London House, at 11-15 High Street, earns rave reviews on every travel site for lunch, afternoon tea, and dinner. The open 2-story setting is tasteful and quiet with windows overlooking the street. Their ever-changing, worldly menu designed by owner Laura Dundas is testimony that the Scots have learned to cook! I highly recommend a starter of Cullin skink, a luscious local chowder of smoked haddock and potatoes. Friends and I have sampled and loved tempura prawns with sweet chilli sauce, crab spring rolls, pork and apple burger with garlic mayo, and main dishes of sea bass, rib-eye steak, chicken, and monkfish. Every meal is beautifully plated, cooked to specifications, and rich in sophisticated flavors. Reservations are very highly suggested. While in Tain, visit the famous Glenmorangie distillery as well as Tain Pottery where you can go upstairs and interact with artists as they hand paint every piece that is produced! Those connected to the Ross clan must stop at Time Through Tain, a museum, church and cemetery, and the friendly headquarters of the clan!
Sutherland House, in Dornoch. To quote one recent Trip Advisor review, “Oh my, I genuinely didn’t think places like this existed. The whole experience was one to savor.” Family-owned and run by Manager Margaret Sutherland with her son as chef, the Sutherland House is an immersive experience in Scottish home cooking. The distinctive, half-timber building (think Shakespeare) is at the end of the Dornoch’s square. When you enter, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped into the warmest local pub imaginable. The dining room and bar dining spaces are warm, compact, and traditional with small tables and tight chairs connecting your group for intimate conversation. Here you can try a small sample of excellent homemade haggis. Specialties include Scotch Haggis Ben Bhraggie, Supreme of Chicken Genmorangie, Saddle of Venison, and steaks with Glenmorangie whiskey or pepper sauce. I go for the venison stew and lamb dishes that are classic in the Highlands. This is the place to try my favorite Sticky Toffee Pudding for dessert, a local gingerbread-like creation floating in warm toffee sauce, ideally with ice cream and cream! Reservations are recommended for dinner, opening at 6 every day.
Dornoch is the major tourist hub so you’ll find other fine restaurants here as well: modern Luigi’s, the 2-story Court Café, and the Castle Hotel also housing the top whisky bar in the country. Visit the 13th-century cathedral, play golf at the Royal Dornoch, and enjoy shopping at The Jail or Kincraig for fine Scottish goods. On your way north through vast fields outlined by ancient rock walls, and just past the lovely village of Golspie, don’t miss the marvelous, award-winning Dunrobin Castle with exciting, informative falconry shows in the massive gardens at 11:30 and 2 daily in summer.
Sid’s Spice, in Brora. Sid’s has won national awards as the #2 Indian restaurant in Scotland (The Herald) and a Top Asian Restaurant (Scottish Curry Awards). Locals love the ambiance and the wonderful food, personally prepared by the amiable owner and chef Syed Miah. According to the website, Sid’s cooking is “inspired by the Shylet region of Bangladesh and under the influence of Sid’s mother and sister, and he’s strived to perfect the region’s tastes.” You can choose from an extensive menu or, if uninitiated in Indian cooking, tell Sid or a waiter what you do like (meat, vegs, spicing), and the kitchen will recommend or concoct something to fit your tastes. The papadums with sauces are a great starter, and sharing meals is encouraged! Both the sit-in and takeaway business can get busy, so relax and enjoy, and do make a reservation for dinner only from 6 pm.
Sid’s Spice is on the corner of the A9 at Station Square, Brora, and just across from the new Cocoa Skye for daytime sandwiches, soups, and homemade chocolates plus real American-style milkshakes! Just around the corner on Golf Road is my beloved Brora Golf Course on Golf Road where the bar is always friendly and the views will break your heart. The Royal Marine also serves light lunches, including Cullin skink, and high-end dinners in a classy, old country-style hotel.
La Mirage, in Helmsdale. There is classy. There is classic. And then there is plain old funky or, what the website calls the “unusual ambiance” of La Mirage. Open on the Main Street of Helmsdale since the 1970s, the unique décor honors the original owner’s admiration for her friend Dame Barbara Cartland, British author of 723 romance novels! I’ve never made the connection between the statues of a policeman and the red shaded leg lamp (think Christmas Story), but it is entertaining. However, everyone comes to La Mirage for the excellent food to which current owners Pam and Mike Wakefield are committed. They serve fresh seafood, grilled gammon (ham) and steaks, chicken and salads for lunch or dinner, but I’ve never ordered anything except the “battered fish tea,” arguably the best fish and chips in the Highlands! Order the “small” because the “large” fish tea is enough for two very hungry people. With 48 hours’ notice, you can share the overwhelming seafood platter for four. Homemade desserts displayed in the window, especially elegant meringues, will make you wish you saved room for dessert. Across the street is TimeSpan, a fine museum of the Highlands, that is well worth your time as you walk off your meal. Then head north along the coastline with expansive fields of barley running to the very edge.
The River Bothy, in Berriedale. Opened in 2016, the River Bothy is a beautifully reconstructed stone building, an old laundry, where owner Fiona Polson creates both traditional and unique snacks and meals between 10 and 4 daily. Think breakfasts of Scottish porridge with fresh cream, blueberry pancakes, or fresh Caithness eggs with smoked salmon. For the full effect, there is the big breakfast of local Latheronwheel sausage, black pudding, bacon, egg, and toast. For lunch, select from toasties, sandwiches, salads, and bagels. My choice is always one of her special plates. There is a charcuterie of meats, cheeses, hummus and olives with crusty fresh bread; the Mediterranean plate of roasted vegetables with hummus and olives; and the traditional Ploughman’s platter with local cheese, chutneys, fruit, and oatcakes. The setting simply soothes one’s soul and the amazing range of made-fresh-daily desserts cap off any visit.
The River Bothy is not easy to find! It’s at the bottom of long, deep hills both north and south and is a sharp turn into a small group of old stone buildings away from the harbor. The Berriedale Braes (or hills) challenge any driver to their dramatic, coast-hugging hairpin turns just north of the Bothy. Be careful!
The Bay Owl, in Dunbeath. Just north of Berriedale is the tiny village of Dunbeath, the headquarters of the Gunn clan and the home place of beloved Scottish writer Neil Gunn who wrote 20 novels about growing up in exactly this locale. From the outside, The Bay Owl is not a place you might choose to stop. It honestly reminds me of an old-fashioned Iowa “supper club,” warm, cozy and frequented by locals. But get yourself in that front door or out to the picnic tables out back to experience one of the most beautiful sea views along the east coast, with the family-owned Dunbeath Castle hanging off the cliffs! Trevor and Irene Filshie and their son, Mark, who serves as chef, are the most down-to-earth, local folks you could meet. Join them for lunch or dinner for jacket potatoes, baguettes, or paninis. Or sink into their traditional main menu of homemade steak pie, chicken with leek and bacon, fillet of grilled salmon, or fresh local Scrabster haddock and chips. Consider sidling up to their bar with over 100 bottles of fine Scottish malt whiskey, a point of pride, but only if you have a non-drinking driver as Scottish drunk driving laws are very severe and very serious!
The North Coast 500 stays along the coast, so just past Dunbeath, you’ll turn right off the A9 (which goes to Thurso) onto the A99 to enjoy the next restaurants in a new landscape. Leaving the county of Sutherland and its hills, you’ll find that the county of Caithness is completely flat!
Whaligoe Steps, at the Cairn o’ Get sign. Chef and owner, Karen Davies, has developed a devoted following to her Whaligoe Steps Café and Restaurant because of her uniquely creative menus based on Mediterranean and Eastern cuisines. Her changing menus are unlike any other you will see in the UK. The secret here is to order lots of small plates—think tapas—for the table and share. You’ll find at least a few for which you’ll want to order seconds! Everything here is special. You’ll find a wide range of homemade breads (hearth bread to anchovy dough balls), dips (from Egypt, Syria, Italy and beyond), and small plates too diverse and complex to explain (but for example, whitebait, crispy halloumi cubes, honey, and ginger aubergine, and roasted beetroot with pomegranate and crushed walnuts). She even has larger plates such as wild venison or duck leg in lentil stew. You get the picture?
It’s wise to check the website for opening times and days as Karen is called out for lots of catering. Also, this place is really hard to find, so again, go to the website for detailed directions. Historically, the 330 Whaligoe Steps, descending 250-foot cliffs, were built sometime in the late 18th century for women carrying heavy baskets of herring up from the tiny beach below. You can walk it today, but for many of us, it’s just a lovely view from the huge picture window of the café.
Bord de L’Eau, in Wick. For classic French dishes, prepared by French chef Daniel Chretien and served by his enthusiastic wife Janice, head on up to the large city of Wick. The couple has been creating traditional French cuisine since 2000 in their lovely riverside restaurant at 2 Market Street. Diners can enjoy the atmosphere of the large glassed-in conservatory or various table arrangements inside for lunch or dinner. My companion and I shared a starter of white crab meat salad. I chose the sea bass filet in dill and lemon butter that came as two large filets, while she went for the grilled halibut with shallots. Our meals included two types of potatoes and heaps of green beans and carrots, all of this in a country where good vegetables (beyond chips) can be hard to find. Menus and hours vary, so it’s best to call ahead to book a table at this place that is popular among the locals for special, celebratory meals. Take the time to visit the Wick Heritage Center just a few blocks away. Local volunteers have collected an incredible range of memorabilia. Amazing photographs by the Johnson family document Wick’s history from 1863 to 1975, especially in the early days when 1000 herring boats were based in her harbor.
At the very northeast top corner of Scotland is the tiny harbor at John O’Groats, 16 miles north of Wick. This is the stepping off point for foot passengers on the Orkney Island ferries as well as the celebratory endpoint for those who have cycled or walked all 837 miles from Lands End in southern England to this spot at the very top of the island! You can feel the triumphant energy everywhere.
Stacks Coffee House, Craft Center, John O’Groats. In John O’Groats, Stacks is a word-of-mouth favorite for those who seek creative cuisine. The mother and daughter team of Teresa and Rebecca Wymer renovated the old Caithness Pottery Workshop and opened in 2016, just a quick walk from the harbor. Teresa works the front lines with a staff of devoted young people while Chef Rebecca, only 26 years old, loves to experiment in the kitchen. She won me over with her mini-chorizos in red wine sauce that was rich, full-bodied, and perfectly spiced as a starter. Rebecca finds a way to enhance even traditional Scottish “toasties,” or toasted sandwiches. For example, there is roast beef with marinated sun-blushed tomatoes and thyme mayo or a smoked chicken breast with coriander butter and red onion. For dinner, try Scottish cider glazed gammon steak (ham) with creamy mash, spiced red cabbage, and gravy. And do save room for luscious “puddings” or desserts such as slow-roasted whole red plums with cinnamon syrup and shortbread crumble or Scottish raspberry and white chocolate semifreddo with honeyed rolled oats. Check the web site for hours and days open, which are dependent on the season, as are all Highland restaurants.
Just a few miles from John O’Groats is Castle Mey where the Queen Mum retired when her husband George VI (think The King’s Speech) died and her daughter became Queen Elizabeth II. It’s a delightful, personal space with kind and generous guides who knew the lady herself! You may also want to visit Thurso, the largest city in the Highlands. The dramatic lighthouse at Strathy Point makes for a nice coastal walk with stunning views that may include whales and dolphins.
Côte Du Nord, in Kirtomy, near Bettyhill. The most unique, exquisite, and high-end concept for a restaurant in the Highlands is Côte Du Nord just east of Bettyhill. Dr. Chris Duckham, a practicing local physician, and his wife Tina serve 10 people per seating at lunch (1 pm, £33) and dinner (7:30 pm, £55) each Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from April through October. In a comfortable yet stylish and art-filled room in their home, the Duckhams offer a range of 5 to 10 stunning courses, each of which is beautiful, delicate, and rich in flavors and textures that both satisfy and surprise. To create a “light contemporary cuisine with a modern French touch,” Chris seeks locally sourced as well as locally foraged ingredients such as wild thyme or bog myrtle to enhance his creative endeavors. For our lunch, we had canapés first of a coronet of Dornoch brie and celeriac with shallot vinegar on caviar and then a black current meringue with lump fish caviar and herring mayonnaise. The first main was a local lobster tart with a fried onion base and thermidor sauce with brandy. Chris personally fired each serving at table to caramelize the sauce and then topped it all with a garnish of dried lobster eggs. Following these were a monkfish dish, pork belly with apple glaze and black pudding and potato, and a finale of chocolate sacher torte with ice cream or the creamiest white chocolate cheesecake with rasberries that we’ve ever had. Add a glass or a set of paired wines and relax and enjoy the presentation, the quiet conversations, the views, and the fact that you are lucky enough to have discovered this place. Why not pamper yourselves a bit at this halfway point on the tour? Booking is clearly essential.
Just down the road in Bettyhill the Strathnaver Museum tells the Norse and Gaelic history of the area. The focus is on important, personal stories of the 1300 people burned out and cleared from the land in 1819 to make room for a new breed of sheep. Ask any local about “the Clearances” to learn more. Expect an emotional response.
Weavers Cafe, Woodend, Rhitongue, near Tongue. Cruising along the top of Scotland on the A836, you’ll find breathtaking sea views. Owners Jon and Anna Baggs of Weaver’s Café invite you to sit and savor the Caribbean blues of the Kyle of Sutherland, a shallow sea-based loch. Chose their lovely deck with picnic tables or their cozy inside space open daily from 10 to 4. You’ll also savor their homemade meat pies, pastries, and sausage rolls, the epitome of Scottish home cooking. Think wild venison with red wine or lamb madras, and you’ll realize that double-crusted, meat-filled Scotch pies are not just commoners’ meals any longer. Or sink your teeth into scones with butter and jam. Definitely try a range of favorite “tray bakes,” cakes or sweets cooked in a square or rectangular container and cut into pieces for serving. I love a peppermint slice, Millionaire’s shortbread, fruit and nut flapjacks, or Bakewell slice. The types are endless. Reviewers of Weavers Cafe also love the cleanliness of their new-built and older remodeled spaces that also include a fine gift shop and rooms to rent.
As the road becomes The A838 heading further west, you are in for some of the most dramatic scenery on the north coast. But this is also where the roads become single track and curvy, so prepare to stop often and only in designated parking places (never in a passing place!) so that you can indeed see what you are passing. I recommend stops at Smoo Cave and Durness where you’ll find the glorious Sango Sands Beach set below a charming 9-hole golf course with stunning views. Cocoa Mountain, a world-famous producer of handmade chocolates, provides a small but comfortable coffee shop atmosphere. For an exciting off-road excursion, look into a trip out to Cape Wrath. After Durness, you’ll head south, now down the wild and mountainous west coast.
Old School Restaurant, in Inshegra, Kinlochbervie. Don’t miss the small road that turns off to Kinlochbervie because the beautiful, untouched beach of Oldshoremore as well as the Old School Restaurant with views of Loch Inchard are well worth your time. The restaurant was the functioning primary school from 1879 till 1970. It now serves locally sourced meals such as North Atlantic prawn and Langoustine cocktail, a trio of pudding (black, white and haggis), and many other Scottish standards. My friend and I sat outside on a gorgeous, sunny day to enjoy the view along with a group of motorcycle riders who were doing the NC500, as are most people who you will meet along the way. People on the NC500 love to share their stories, promote their own treasured discoveries, and get advice from travelers going the other direction. That day, our Kinlochbervie haddock and chips, followed by a luscious, moist carrot cake, hit the spot. If we had stayed longer—or overnight in their bed and breakfast accommodations—we could have watched the sunset over the west coast. Next time perhaps!
Kylesku Hotel Restaurant, in Kylesku. Nestled amongst the grand mountains of western Scotland and perched above the shores of the extensive Loch Glendhu, the restaurant at the Kylesku Hotel is renown for its ultra-locally sourced menu and an incredibly detailed and refined drinks menu. The menu is so local that you’ll learn that you can meet Darren and Callum at the hotel jetty to select your dinner from their creel-caught langoustines, crabs, and lobsters. Or enjoy the salads, fruits, and vegetables from nearby Croft 16 run by Pete and Gill. I had been itching for scallops (thanks to diver Andy Holbrow, I learn), and they were plump and rich in a garlic and parsley butter sauce. My friends’ fish and good, crispy chips and another’s fish cakes were fresh, light, and everything we came here for.
Owners and directors Sonia Virechauveix and Tanja Lister, both European born, took over the Kylesku Hotel in 2009 and sought to create a full-experience environment in which to stay and enjoy this incredible land. Needless to stay, early booking of rooms is essential. The Kylesku Hotel specializes in boutique rooms with modern taste and loch views. Beyond the excellent restaurant, visitors can take a gentle boat ride for hours along Loch Glendhu or choose sea tours to Handa Island or Cape Wrath for bird and wildlife adventures. Both types of travel begin right at their dock! If hill walking is your thing, you are in the center of miles of well-marked trails here in the west. The owners and staff are eager to help.
The Lochinver Larder, locally known as The Pie Shop, in Lochinver. Ian and Debra Stewart have created a monster here! Most everyone agrees that the Pie Shop has the best and the widest range of Scottish pies! Pies are served in the conservatory or a garden-like setting next to the River Inver. They also deliver “pies by post,” but unfortunately, that’s only to the mainland of the UK. The range of pies is truly amazing and, of course, mouth-watering. Consider pork, apple and cider; venison and cranberry; steak and ale; chestnut mushroom and red wine; spiced butternut squash, sweet potato and goats cheese; chorizo, pork and Manchego cheese; salmon; lamb; and of course, haggis, neeps and tatties. Then there are the sweet pies including rhubarb, apricot and peach, apple, and blackcurrent. Each pie is about 4 inches round and 1.5 inches high, perfect for a single serving. All crusts and contents are homemade daily. The only difficult thing about the Pie Shop is that you will probably need to make choices.
It can be a challenge to get there too. As you are making your way down the A894 from Durness and Kinlochbervie, on the NC500 map you will see a dotted line of a single track road that loops toward the coast from Kylesku out to the view at Drumbeg and Clachtoll. Believe those exclamation points on the map that warn that this is a challenging road! An easier way in to Lochinver is from the next turn onto the A837. As the Scots say, Lochinver is at “the back of beyond.” But I think for both the views and the pies, it’s well worth the effort.
Seafood Shack, in Ullapool. You may have noticed by now the number of women and couples, –restaurant owners and creative entrepreneurs–who are finding a niche in a north of Scotland. In Ullapool, that would be Kirsty Scobie and Fenella Renwick, local lassies who are knowledgeable and experienced both in the fishing industry and in catering. Impressively, it is their relatives who provide daily provisions of very fresh prawn, crab, lobster, and scallops, all using environmentally sustainable and healthy fishing methods. Since opening in 2016, the Seafood Shack has collected numerous awards and rave reviews from locals and travelers as well. Distinctively, the Seafood Shack is a static food truck placed in a sizeable open lot full of picnic tables that are shared by groups of diners. Of course, menus are dependent on the catches of the day. My friend and I both chose the tempura haddock with lemon and pesto mayo. It was a very large portion, deliciously succulent and served in a paper cone. Others at our table tried the creel caught langoustines; the smoked haddock with crispy chorizo and pea mac and cheese; or the smoked mackerel pate. The setting and utensils of the Seafood Shack may seem less classic or classy, but know that such open-air seafood shacks dot the harbors of the extensive Scottish coast. For years, they have provided excellent quality, traditional and sustainable fishing methods, and now scrumptious menus that take Scottish cuisine into modern times.
Heading south you are in for some of the most stunning scenery in Scotland: impressive and extensive mountains, the coastal gardens of Poolewe, the view from the top of Loch Maree looking west, the grandeur of the Torridon mountains, and then the coastal road around to Applecross. Fair warning! The meandering coastal road into Applecross from Kinlochewe is single track, but manageable. But the shorter road out—the famous Bealach na Ba–is only for those in dependable vehicles, well trained in single-track driving and backing uphill or steeply downhill, and with a carload of people with strong stomachs! I’ve done it twice. Won’t do it again! From a terrifying height of over 2000 feet, you can see all the way down the narrow, winding, hairpin turns of the steepest paved road in the UK! Great scenery, yes, but risky driving to say the least.
Applecross Inn, in Applecross on Shore Street. However you get there, the Applecross Inn with a view over to the Isle of Raasay is a stunning, classic of the old Scotland. Many of the staff here have served for a decade or more. They and owner Judith Fish will gladly share the history of this old building and the surrounding area. Today, the Inn offers seven ensuite bed-and-breakfast rooms open all year round. Most of us, however, drive in for the classic public bar and restaurant that offer the seafood and highland game meals for which we came to Scotland. During cooler days, a peat fire warms the small spaces while in finer weather, visitors go for outdoor seating with a view. Sure they serve starters and mains of haggis, herring, smoked salmon, oysters, pigeon breast, and of course, fish and chips. But I’ve never ordered anything except the massive seafood platter, overflowing with fresh-caught jewels from the surrounding sea, just right for two to share. Maybe with a night at the Inn, and driving back the long way back out to the highway, I could go back. But there will be no Bealach na Ba if you are in the car with me!
By now I hope you see that by taking a speedy drive around the North Coast 500, you would cheat yourselves out of the natural and gastronomic wonders of the Scottish Highlands. With days or even weeks to meander, I hope you’ll try many of these special restaurants. Their owners, chefs, and local guests are eager to meet you, to share their experiences and knowledge, and to engage in some good “craick.” That’s Scottish for rowdy and newsy gossip, fun, conversation, and joking! Wander into any establishment up here, and you’ll make new friends, learn a lot, laugh more, and remember how good life can be “at the back of beyond.” As we say up here, “That’s me finished.” But I hope your journey has just begun.
